Why can two pieces of gold jewelry of the same weight have different values?

Two rings each weigh 10 grams. However, when appraised, one may be worth significantly more than the other.

How is that possible?

When it comes to gold jewelry, the total weight alone is not enough to determine its value. You also need to know its actual gold content, fineness, composition, and the various elements it contains.

For example, a 10-gram ring made of 18-karat gold does not contain the same amount of fine gold as a 10-gram ring made of 9-karat gold.

It is this difference that largely explains why two pieces of jewelry that appear similar may receive different estimates.

The weight of a piece of jewelry is only part of the calculation

Weight is obviously important.

The more precious metal a piece of jewelry contains, the higher its potential value may be.

But when you place a piece of jewelry on a scale, it shows the total weight of the object.

However, this weight may include:

• gold;
• other metals present in the alloy;
• stones;
• decorative elements;
• certain parts that are not made of gold.

It is therefore necessary to determine what the piece of jewelry actually contains before an accurate estimate can be made.

The number of carats significantly affects the amount of gold contained

The gold used in jewelry is usually alloyed with other metals.

Pure gold is 24 karats, but it is relatively soft. To make jewelry that is more durable, it is therefore used in the form of an alloy.

These include, in particular:

9 karats: 37.5% fine gold
14 karats: 58.5% fine gold
18 karats: 75% fine gold
22 karats: approximately 91.6% fine gold
24 karats: nearly pure gold

That is why the number of carats plays a key role in the value of a piece of jewelry.

Example: two pieces of jewelry weighing 10 grams each

Let's take two pieces of jewelry that weigh exactly 10 grams.

The first one is made of 18-karat gold.

The second one is made of 9-karat gold.

The 18-karat piece of jewelry theoretically contains approximately:

10 g × 75% = 7.5 g of fine gold

As for the 9-karat jewelry, it contains approximately:

10 g × 37.5% = 3.75 g of fine gold

The two pieces of jewelry therefore weigh exactly the same, but the first one theoretically contains twice as much fine gold as the second.

Their value as precious metals will naturally differ.

What do the numbers 375, 585, and 750 mean on a piece of jewelry?

Jewelry does not always have a carat marking.

You can also find figures expressing the gold content in parts per thousand.

For example:

• 375 is equivalent to 9 carats;
• 585 is equivalent to 14 karats;
• 750 is equivalent to 18 karats;
• 916 is generally equivalent to 22 karats.

A 750 hallmark therefore means that the alloy theoretically contains 750 thousandths of gold, or 75 percent.

These details are a useful starting point for identifying the piece of jewelry.

Gemstones can affect the apparent weight of the jewelry

Now let's imagine two 18-karat gold rings weighing 10 grams each.

The first one doesn't contain any stones.

The second one has a relatively large stone.

Even though the scale reads 10 grams for both rings, the 10 grams do not entirely correspond to the gold alloy in the second case.

Part of the weight comes from the stone.

It is therefore necessary to distinguish, as much as possible, the weight of the components that do not consist of the recovered metal.

This is particularly common in:

• set rings;
• pendants;
• the pins;
• certain bracelets;
• jewelry with multiple stones.

Does a gemstone always increase the value of a piece of jewelry?

No.

The presence of a stone does not automatically mean that it has significant commercial value.

It could be a gemstone, a semi-precious stone, a synthetic stone, or simply a decorative element.

Its nature, quality, size, condition, and any certification must be considered separately.

When a piece of jewelry is valued primarily for its gold, one should therefore avoid automatically counting the weight of the stone as part of the weight of the gold.

The different parts of a piece of jewelry are not always made of the same metal

A piece of jewelry can also consist of several components.

A clasp, a spring, or certain mechanisms may be made of a different material.

On antique jewelry or pieces that have been repaired, certain areas may also have been soldered or replaced over time.

Two pieces of jewelry with the same weight may therefore have different compositions.

That's yet another reason why simply weighing someone isn't always enough.

Can a hollow chain and a solid chain have the same value?

If the weight and fineness are exactly the same, the amount of gold in the alloy is comparable.

The difference between a hollow chain and a solid chain lies mainly in their construction and apparent volume.

A hollow chain can look very imposing even though it is relatively light.

Conversely, a solid chain of similar dimensions can weigh much more.

That is why the appearance or size of a piece of jewelry rarely provides a reliable indication of its gold value.

Balance and titration remain much more important.

Yellow, white, or rose gold: Does the color affect the value?

Not necessarily.

An 18-karat yellow gold piece, an 18-karat white gold piece, and an 18-karat rose gold piece theoretically contain the same percentage of fine gold: 75 percent.

It is primarily the other metals present in the alloy that give the jewelry its color.

For example, rose gold may contain more copper, while white gold uses other metals to achieve its light color.

When determining a value based primarily on the value of gold, the fineness is therefore much more important than the color.

Can two pieces of 18-karat gold jewelry still have different values?

Yes.

Even when the title is the same, several factors can come into play.

The two pieces of jewelry may have different actual gold weights due to non-precious stones or components.

An item may also be of particular interest because of its brand, age, craftsmanship, or resale value as jewelry.

Therefore, not all jewelry is necessarily viewed solely as a quantity of metal to be melted down.

An appraisal helps determine the most appropriate way to evaluate the item.

The price of gold directly affects the valuation

Once the amount of gold has been determined, the price of gold is another key factor.

This price is constantly changing in the markets.

The same piece of jewelry may therefore be appraised at a different value depending on the time period in which it is presented.

That is why an appraisal conducted several months ago does not necessarily reflect the jewelry's current value.

At Agence de l’Or, our estimates are based on the current gold price.

Why isn't the listed price for pure gold the same as the price of your piece of jewelry?

It is common to look up the price per gram of gold online and then multiply that figure by the weight of your piece of jewelry.

But this calculation may result in an incorrect estimate.

If the price listed is for pure gold, it cannot be applied directly to 18-, 14-, or 9-karat jewelry.

Let's take another example of a 10-gram piece of 18-karat gold jewelry.

Theoretically, it does not contain 10 grams of fine gold, but rather about 7.5 grams.

This proportion must therefore be taken into account before making any estimates.

Are hallmarks enough to determine value?

Hallmarks are very useful, but they are not always sufficient proof on their own.

They can be:

• very old;
• worn out;
• difficult to read;
• absent;
• or sometimes inconsistent with the object's actual composition.

That is why professionals also use various testing methods to inspect the metal.

The goal is to determine the actual fineness of the jewelry as accurately as possible.

How is a piece of gold jewelry appraised?

At a specialized agency, several steps may be required.

1. Examine the piece of jewelry

The expert begins by examining the object, its hallmarks, and its various parts.

2. Check the titer

Tests can then be conducted to determine the gold content of the jewelry.

3. Identify items that are not valued as highly as gold

Stones and other components must be taken into account to avoid treating the entire weight as gold.

4. Weigh the piece of jewelry

Weight is also a key factor in calculating the amount of metal.

5. Take the current exchange rate into account

The proposal is ultimately determined based, in particular, on the grade, the actual recoverable weight, and the current price of gold at the time of the appraisal.

Why test and weigh the jewelry in front of the customer?

When selling a gold item, it is important to understand how its value is determined.

At Agence de l’Or, testing and weighing are performed in front of the customer.

This makes it possible to follow the various steps in the appraisal process and understand why two pieces of jewelry that appear similar may ultimately have different values.

The goal is for the customer to know what they have and how the quote is calculated.

Is it possible to determine the exact value of a piece of jewelry based on a photo?

A photograph can provide some clues about the type of jewelry, but it generally does not allow for a precise determination of its value.

Based on a photo, it's hard to know for sure:

• its weight;
• its title;
• the type of metal;
• the composition of the various parts;
• the potential weight of the stones.

To obtain a reliable estimate, the item should therefore ideally be examined in person.

Two pieces of jewelry that look identical can therefore be worth very different amounts

Ultimately, this is one of the most important points to remember.

Two rings can have:

• the same size;
• the same color;
• the same weight;
• and an almost identical appearance.

But if one is 18 karat and the other is 9 karat, the amount of fine gold in each will be very different.

Similarly, a ring set with several stones may contain less gold than a ring without stones, even though both weigh exactly the same on the scale.

The weight of a piece of jewelry is therefore important, but it must always be considered in relation to its fineness and composition.

Get a free appraisal of your gold jewelry

Do you own a ring, a necklace, a bracelet, a wedding band, or other gold jewelry and want to know how much they're worth?

At Agence de l’Or, our specialists examine your jewelry, verify its composition, and weigh it in front of you in order to provide you with an estimate based primarily on its gold content and the current market price.

The estimate is free and non-binding.

You can visit one of our branches in Belgium directly:

• Braine-l'Alleud
• Charleroi
• Huy
• La Louvière
• Rixensart
• Uccle
• Wavre
• Wavre Center
• Saint-Pierre-Woluwe

You don't need to know the carat weight or the weight of your jewelry before your visit.

Just bring them to the branch: we can test them, weigh them in front of you, and explain exactly how their value is determined.